Everyone talks about the forts — and yes, they're worth every word. But the parts that stayed with me were the in-between bits. The chai stop where no one was selling anything. The narrow lane in Jaipur's old city we took by mistake. The Rajasthan trip package we were on had a loose afternoon in Jaisalmer with nothing fixed, and that afternoon wandering without purpose — that's what I keep returning to in my head.